Old Goa
Old Goa, also called Velha Goa. It is beside the Mandovi River. It was the former capital of Portuguese India. Known for colonial-era monuments like the Basilica of Bom Jesus, with the remains of St. Francis Xavier, and the domed Church of St. Cajetan, inspired by St. Peter’s in Rome. Nearby, the vast Se Cathedral, built in the 16th–17th centuries, has ornate chapels and a bell tower. The Church of St. Francis of Assisi whose convent has been converted into Archaeological Meseum.
Church of St. Cajetan, Old Goa
In the 17th century, Pope Urban III sent Italian priests from the Theatine Order to Golconda. When refused entry, they settled in Old Goa. Here, in 1651, they erected a church dedicated to their founder, St Cajetan, and designed along the lines of St Peter’s in Rome.
The distinctive dome and interior, laid out in the shape of a Greek cross, embody the majesty of Italian Baroque. The exuberant woodcarvings on its high altar and pulpit are particularly noteworthy. The adjacent monastery is today a college of theology.
Adil Shah Palace Gateway, Old Goa
Next to the Convent of St Cajetan, this freestanding basalt doorway, atop five steps, is the only remains of the grand palace of Goa’s 16th-century Muslim ruler Adil Shah. It was later converted into the notorious Palace of the Inquisition, in whose dungeons countless ‘heretics’ languished, awaiting their dreadful fate. Building in Panaji repurposed materials from the palace after being torn down in the 18th century.
Viceroy’s Arch, Old Goa
One of popular monuments of Old Goa, the monument was built by Viceroy Francisco da Gama in 1597 as a tribute to the achievements of his grandfather, Vasco da Gama, the famous explorer. The arch collapsed in 1948 but was later rebuilt in 1954, only omitting the bronze statue of St Catherine on the third tier of the arch. Made of laterite stone with a granite (greenish) facade, it has inscriptions inside which are related to Vasco Da Gama and King Dom Joao IV. On the side facing the Mandovi river, there is a small statue of Vasco da Gama, fully attired in his royal uniform, on top of the arch.
Se’ Cathedral, Old Goa
The Roman Catholics under the Portuguese rule constructed another celebrated religious buildings of Goa Se’ Cathedral in 16th century . The Cathedral, the largest church in Asia, is dedicated to St. Catherine of Alexandria on whose feast day in 1510, Alfonso Albuquerque defeated the Muslim army and took possession of the city of Goa. Hence, it is also known as St. Catherine’s’ Cathedral.
The construction of this imposing edifice began in 1562 during the reign of King Dom Sebastiao (1557-78) and substantially completed by 1619. 1640 was the year of its consecration.
The main altar is intricately and wonderfully carved and gilded; additionally it is backed by an awe-inspiring reredos depicting scenes of St. Catherine’s life and her martyrdom.
In the transept are six altars, three on either side of the main altar. The altars on the right side are those of St. Anne, Our Lady of Dolours and St. Peter.
Those on the left are those of Our Lady of Sorrows, Our Lady of Three Necessities and Our Lady of Hope.
On each side of the church are four chapels along the aisles; to the right, these are dedicated to St Anthony, St Bernard, the Cross of Miracles and the Holy Spirit.
Whilst on the left, starting at the entrance, to Our Lady of Virtues, St. Sebastian, the Blessed Sacrament and Our Lady of Life.
The cathedral entrance faces a tall statue of Jesus Christ with open arms.
Basilica of Bom Jesus, Old Goa
The Basilica of Bom Jesus or Borea Jezuchi Bajilika located 10 km east Panaji (Capital of Goa) was built in 1605. ‘Bom Jesus’ means ‘Infant Jesus’ or ‘Good Jesus’. This cathedral is India’s first Minor Basilica and renowned throughout the Catholic world. Baroque architecture in India is exemplified by it. The layout follows simple Renaissance norms while the detailing and decoration is unabashed Baroque. It’s an opulent structure, which incorporates white marble and has beautifully gilded altars decorated with frescoes and inlay work.
The Basilica houses the sacred relics of St. Francis Xavier, patron saint of Goa who died in 1552. Cosimo de Medici III, Grand Duke of Tuscany, gifted the mortal remains of the saint to the church. Today, the embalmed body lies in an airtight glass coffin positioned in a silver casket crafted by a 17th century Florentine sculptor, Giovanni Batista Foggini. His remains were transferred to Goa the year after his death as per his wishes. It is said that, while transferring, the saint’s body was found to be as fresh as the day it was buried.
The the main altar exhibits a huge statue of Saint Ignatius of Loyola, the founder (along with St. Francis Xavier who was a founding member) of the Society of Jesus and below it, a small image of Bom Jesus (Child Jesus), the patron of the church.
The mausoleum of St. Xavier is a marvel of Italian art (the marble base) and Hindu craftsmanship (the silver casket). The elaborately gilded altars are fine examples of sculptures and carvings in wood, stone, gold and granite. Marble inlaid with precious stones cover the columns. The church also houses paintings depicting the life of St. Francis Xavier.
Church of St. Francis of Assisi, Old Goa
Journeying west from the Se Cathedral, one comes upon the Old Palace of the Archbishop, which serves as a conduit from the cathedral to the Church of St. Francis of Assisi. In 1517, eight Franciscan monks landed in Goa. They immediately set to work and built themselves a small chapel. In 1521 the Holy Ghost got the dedication of this chapel after completion. In 1602 the church was consecrated after expansion of the building. However, in 1665 it was reconstructed.
Circular pilasters and rosette bands decorate the main entrance. A pair of navigator’s globes and a Greek cross (the emblem of all Portuguese ships) embellish the door.
The tabernacle above the main altar dedicated St Francis of Assisi has a huge statue of the saint, and another of Jesus on the cross. The adjoining walls of the nave house Statues of St Peter and St Paul. On either side of the baroque high altar are stunning reredos consisting of paintings on wood depicting scenes from the life of St Francis of Assisi.
Convent of St. Francis of Assisi – Archaeological Museum Goa
The Archaeological Museum is in the adjoining convent. It is worth a visit in its own right.
Located at the back of the Convent and Church of St. Francis of Assisi, this museum contains many important and beautiful artifacts of the Portuguese rule in India.
On entrance to the museum, the 3.10 meter high bronze statue of Afonso de Albuquerque greets the visitor.
The center of key gallery has the standing Vishnu (13th century) with a Prabhavali (Halo) carved with Dashavatara, the ten incarnations of Vishnu.
The main attraction of gallery no. 1 is the imposing 3.6 m high bronze statue of Luis Vaz de Camoes (AD 1524-1580), the national poet of Portugal.
‘Hero stones’ carving commemorate Hindu warriors who perished in combat, and ‘sati stones’ carvings commemorate widow burning.
The three images of Vetala displayed in this gallery represent a unique cult of Bhoot Aaradhana, the worship of the Bhootas or Vetala, who are demi gods residing in the underworld.
Ruins of the Church of St. Augustine, Old Goa
The Augustinian order built this complex. It comprised the church of Our Lady of Grace, the Convent of Saint Augustine, The College of Populo, and The Seminary of St. Guilherme.
The tower built of laterite still stands. This great structure stands four stories high. It was a belfry. The ancient bell has changed residence twice. First to the Fort Aguada and more recently to Our Lady of Immaculate Conception Church at Panaji, where it remains till today.
The day was exhausting. We walked a lot. It was very hot and humid. We were dying from hunger and thirst so we stopped at a restaurant and had lunch. After that we headed to Candolim Beach to relax.
Candolim Beach
Candolim lies 15 kilometres from Panjim, the Goan capital, in northern Goa. Beginning at Fort Aguada and merging with Calangute Beach towards the end, it is one of the longest beaches in the state. The beach in itself is very calm. Shops and restaurants pack the main Candolim-Calangute Road. But the beach front is free of any commercial activity apart from some water activities.
The ship River Princess is a feature of the Candolim Beach. The shores have kept it stuck since 2000.
We enjoyed bathing in the sea. It was really relaxing after a long and hectic day.
What better way it could have been to end the day with a relaxing beer at the beach hut.
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