Little Lhasa – Exiled Tibet’s Headquarter

Mcleodganj (also spelt McLeodGanj or McLeod Ganj) is a suburb of Dharamshala in Kangra district of Himachal Pradesh. It is known as “Little Lhasa” or “Dhasa” (a short form of Dharamshala used mainly by Tibetans) because of its large population of Tibetans. The Tibetan government-in-exile is headquartered here. It was was named after Sir Donald Friell McLeod, a Lieutenant Governor of Punjab; the suffix ganj is a common Persian word used for “neighbourhood”.

Today we have planned to cover the below places in Mcleodganj.

1. 1. Dalai Lama Temple
   2. Namgyal Monastery
   3. St. John’s Church in the wilderness
   4. Dal Lake
   5. Naddi Sunset Point

In March 1959, Tenzin Gyatso, the 14th Dalai Lama, fled to India after the failed uprising in 1959 in Tibet against the Communist Party of China. The Indian Government offered him refuge in Dharamshala, where he set up the Government of Tibet in exile in 1960. Mcleodganj became his official residence and also home to several Buddhist monasteries and thousands of Tibetan refugees. Over the years, it evolved into an important tourist and pilgrimage destination, and has since grown substantially in population.

Dalai Lama Temple

An important Buddhist shrine (located opposite to the Namgyal Monastery in the same courtyard) in the town is the Tsuglagkhang or Tsuglag Khang, known as the Dalai Lama’s temple. It houses the statues, in sitting postures, of Shakyamuni (gilded)- the central mage, Avalokiteśvara (the deity of compassion sculpted in silver with eleven faces and thousand arms and eyes -linked to a legend), and Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche) – both facing the direction of Tibet – and also the Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts. Dalai Lama’s residence is opposite to this temple. A festival is held here every year, during April and May, when traditional dances and plays are enacted.

Namgyal Monastery

Founded in 1564 or 1565 as Phende Lekshe Ling (on the foundations of the since defunct monastery called Phende Gon) by the Second Dalai Lama Gendun Gyatso, Namgyal Monastery was renamed in honour of the female long-life deity Namgyälma in 1571. Since the completion of construction on the Potala Palace (begun by the Fifth Dalai Lama), Namgyal was traditionally housed in the red section at the top of that building in Lhasa. Following the Tibetan uprising of 1959, Namgyal Monastery relocated to Mcleodganj in the Tsuglagkhang temple complex,opposite to His Holiness The Dalai Lama’s main temple, where it continues, active, to this day.

Lhamo’s Croissant

Lhamo’s Croissant is a very popular bakery and coffee shop of Mcleodganj known for its simple and casual ambiance. Located at the Bhagsu Road, the relaxing setting of the cafe is the first thing that you will notice when you visit this place. The owners Lhamo Tso and her husband DK are very friendly and attentive to all your needs. You’ll receive a warm welcome from their cute little daughter, Namsey, and the friendly  dog, Simba. The rooftop open air sitting area is the ideal place to be on a chilly winter morning to enjoy your breakfast along with some sunshine and distant views of the snow clad mountains.

Don’t be misled by the “croissant” in the name of this restaurant. Yes, there are yummy chocolate croissants, but so much more than just croissants. Lhamo makes a great assortment of soups, fresh salads, quiches and decadently delicious desserts, from chocolate banana cake, mocha cake, and the best carrot cake in Mcleodganj. This place is well reputed for its organic dishes and cakes. With a fine collection of drinks, they provide pocket-friendly food that comes in a good proportion as well. Vegan and Gluten free food is also available here.

St. John’s Church in the wilderness

A forest between Mcleodganj and Forsyth Ganj houses a relic of the British Raj, the Saint John’s Church in the Wilderness. 1852 was the year of its construction. Built in the neo-Gothic architecture style, much of the structure survived a devastating earthquake in 1905 which flattened most building in Kangra valley. But its spire, Bell tower, was destroyed. Later, a new bell, cast in 1915, was brought from England and installed outside in the compound of the church.

The church was built to provide a place of worship for the British soldiers posted at Mcleodganj, and is full of memorial stones of those who passed away here. Its churchyard is the final resting place of Lord Elgin, who became the Governor-General & Viceroy of India in 1861 during the British Raj, though he soon died at Dharamshala in November 1863, and was buried there. The church has some fine Belgian stained glass windows which were donated by Lady Elgin, wife of Lord Elgin.

Dal Lake

Legend has it that a king who went to bathe in the sacred Manimahesh Lake below the Kailash Mountain lost his gold ring. The ring later re-surfaced in the Dal Lake. This water body was considered the poor man’s Manimahesh for those who couldn’t afford to go to Kailash for salvation by bathing in it. What remains today in, is no more than a pond, but nonetheless, the lake is sacred to locals of Mcleodganj. A beautiful walk from the town, the lake is inundated with goldfish, and is worth a visit.

Naddi Sunset Point

If you want the beauty of snow-capped mountains, there could be no better place than the Naddi sunset point. The viewpoint is one of the tourist places in Mcleodganj that offers a splendid view of the hilly areas. As the name suggests, it is the place where people can watch the sunset clearly. The blissful moment is created when the dawn sets in. A lot of tourists flock around this place with their cameras to get a glimpse of the sunset and capture it in their cameras.

After reaching Naddi sunset point we had ample time in our hand before sunset. So we went on for a little exploration around the place. We walked for a while on the trail to Guna Mata Temple then came back once the foliage got denser. It was secluded and we did not take any chance lest we came face to face with some wild Himalayan Bear. Then we went around the village of Tota Rani and Bhatalla.

I personally suggest you to stay at Mcleodganj. Since you get to spend a better time away from the crowd. Dharamshala town is the city centre bustling with commercial activities. Contrarily Mcleodganj is pristine.